1. Tone or Shade the Root Area
If your client is happy with their natural base colour through the roots, you can skip this step. However, if they want to get a dark base colour, cover greys, or just refine their shade, the root area should be toned first. Choose one of the products below, and find a darker colour that’s cool toned so it blends with the ash blonde colour in the lengths. Here’s how to find the perfect colour product for your client’s end goal:
For a root shadow: You can use any product in the Wella colour portfolio for a root shadow. One of our favourites is Color Touch, thanks to its rich, glossy finish and gentle fade, which is ideal for softer, more seamless regrowth.
For grey coverage: Koleston Perfect and Illumina Color each offer up to 100% grey coverage, so if your client wants to completely camouflage stray silver strands, pick a shade from one of these ranges.
For refining and refreshing: If your client simply wants to refresh their existing root colour, suggest a Shinefinity colour glaze, which offers a translucent tint while retaining their natural multi-tones. All you have to do is mix their chosen colour 1:1 with the Bottle Activator or Brush & Bowl Activator.
Pro tip: Blending your root shadow down onto the lightened areas will result in a softer and more seamless transition. Just be sure not to take the shadow too low.
2. Lighten the Mid-Lengths and Ends
For hair to segue from dark roots to light ends, it will need to be lifted from the mid-lengths down. Our go-to pre-lightener is BlondorPlex, which is infused with our bond-strengthening Plex ingredient. Paint it through the full width of your client’s hair, starting at the mid-lengths and ending at the tips. If your client wants a little extra ‘pop’ through the front, you can add some face-framing highlights too. Then, after allowing the lightener to develop, rinse hair, and use WellaPlex No2 to neutralize. Once towel-dried, locks will be ready for the ash blonde toning step.
3. Apply Your Ash Blonde Hues
In order for your client’s colour to graduate seamlessly from dark to light, you may need two ash blonde toning formulas: one for the mid-lengths and one for the ends. However, as hair tends to be more porous through the tips, you may find lightener naturally lifts higher through this section, meaning one toner can be used from the mid-lengths down. You’ll discover ash blonde hues across all of the Wella colour products, and our numbering system makes them easy to find. Simply look for shades with a 1 (ash), 2 (matt green) or 9 (cendre) after the stroke. This can be directly after if ash is the major tone (e.g. Shinefinity 08/98), or at the end of the number if it’s the minor tone (e.g. Koleston Perfect 9/81).