Every client who gets their blonde from a bottle will experience some level of regrowth, and there are times when the mid-lengths and ends will need a professional retouch, too. However, where possible, you should focus your lightener on the root area only, so you’re not lifting fragile ends every time your client visits the salon.
1. Choose a Color to Cover Roots
Start the process by selecting a root color. Ask your client if they want a perfect match, a soft, subtle smudge or gray coverage. Then, mix up their formula accordingly. If it’s an identical match they crave, use Wella’s depth chart to figure out what level their natural hair is, as well as the already-lightened ends. This will help you figure whether you need to lighten roots – and by how many levels – so you know which product to reach for.
Is it a root shadow they want? Again, use the depth chart to determine which shade will create a gentle contrast that offers your client a born-with-it quality. Lightening is required if the shadow is lighter than the natural base. Otherwise, use demi-permanent color like Color Touch or permanent Koleston Perfect to smudge and shade the crown area. to smudge and shade the crown area.
Disguising grays as you go? For up to 100% gray coverage, use Koleston Perfect’s portfolio of Pure Naturals colors when touching up the root area. Add ⅓ Pure Naturals to the target color on hair that’s 30-50% gray, and ½ of a Pure Naturals shade for hair that's 50-100% gray.
2. Start Where You Want the Highest Lift
Use a tint brush to apply color to the root area, starting where the highest level of lift is desired, where there’s a larger percentage of gray or where hair tends to be more resistant. Typically, this is the back of the head, but placement of grays or stubborn patches is unique to every client.
3. Saturate the Roots
Finally, don’t be afraid to layer up the color. Saturate the root area by sweeping the tint brush through the back and front of each section, so strands are covered the whole way around. This creates a uniform finish, with not a hint of regrowth in sight.