This is How You Touch Up Roots on Blonde Hair
Roots are no bad thing. In fact, there are times when we strive to recreate regrowth, adding a shadow root to lend dimension to light browns, warm reds, blonde balayage, babylights and more. However, for those clients who want lighter locks through and through – from root to tip – it’s important you know how to touch up roots on blonde hair in the most seamless, natural-looking way.
Retouching regrowth is part of your basic training as a colorist, but with trends ever changing, it’s a good idea to keep brushing up on your technique. Here, we reveal your need-to-know guide to camouflaging roots on blonde hair, plus five formulas to inspire your next in-salon creation…
How Do You Cover Roots on Blonde Hair?
Every client who gets their blonde from a bottle will experience some level of regrowth, and there are times when the mid-lengths and ends will need a professional retouch, too. However, where possible, you should focus your hair lightener on the root area only, so you’re not lifting fragile ends every time your client visits the salon.
1. Choose a Color to Cover Roots
Start the process by selecting a root color. Ask your client if they want a perfect match, a soft, subtle smudge or gray coverage. Then, mix up their formula accordingly. If it’s an identical match they crave, use Wella’s depth chart to figure out what level their natural hair is, as well as the already-lightened ends. This will help you figure whether you need to lighten roots – and by how many levels – so you know which product to reach for.
Is it a root shadow they want? Again, use the depth chart to determine which shade will create a gentle contrast that offers your client a born-with-it quality. Lightening is required if the shadow is lighter than the natural base. Otherwise, use demi-permanent color like Color Touch or permanent Koleston Perfect to smudge and shade the crown area. to smudge and shade the crown area.
Disguising grays as you go? For up to 100% gray coverage, use Koleston Perfect’s portfolio of Pure Naturals colors when touching up the root area. Add ⅓ Pure Naturals to the target color on hair that’s 30-50% gray, and ½ of a Pure Naturals shade for hair that's 50-100% gray.
2. Start Where You Want the Highest Lift
Use a tint brush to apply color to the root area, starting where the highest level of lift is desired, where there’s a larger percentage of gray or where hair tends to be more resistant. Typically, this is the back of the head, but placement of grays or stubborn patches is unique to every client.
3. Saturate the Roots
Finally, don’t be afraid to layer up the color. Saturate the root area by sweeping the tint brush through the back and front of each section, so strands are covered the whole way around. This creates a uniform finish, with not a hint of regrowth in sight.
How Do You Touch Up Roots on Highlighted Hair?
Take the steps above, and channel them into a highlighting technique. That means you still need to choose a shade and saturate the roots, but go for soft, seamless ribbons versus full regrowth coverage. Essentially, you’re trying to blend the existing highlights from the mid-lengths upwards, which means matching the width and style – whether it’s babylights, Illuminage or balayage you’re recreating.
6 Root Touch-Up Formulas
1. Root Touch Up on Gray Blonde Hair
Image Credit: @cheryldoighairstylist
To take this grown-out, brassy ‘do back to its crisp, clean, gray blonde best, Cheryl started by applying lowlights using Koleston Perfect 7/7 and 6/0 with a touch of 6/34. Once the lights had been rinsed, the roots were shaded with Color Touch 6/0 plus 7/89, while mid-lengths and ends were set aglow in 9/96, 9/01 and 10/0.
2. Root Touch Up with Blonde Highlights
Image Credit: @hairbykiesler
This is a flawless demonstration of how blonde highlights can be used to disguise dark roots, perfected using Blondor Freelights, painted freehand. Next, Koleston Perfect was applied over the top, first to shade the root, and then to give the mid-lengths and ends a rich, glossy glow.
3. Root Touch Up for Beachy Blonde Hair
Image Credit: @kir.hair
Now, this is a transformation. Not only did Wella Master Color Expert Kirstine Rechnagel have roots to contend with, but she also took locks from strawberry blonde to beach blonde in one session. The look started with Blondorplex babylights in foils, mixed with 4% developer in the back and 9% over the parting. Then, Illumina Color was applied. She used 9/19 and 10/81 with 1.9% Pastel for 15 minutes on towel dried mid-lengths and ends, adding color to the roots for the final five minutes only.
4. Root Touch Up on Platinum Blonde Hair
Image Credit: @mareksyriste
Goodbye deep, dark regrowth. Hello icy-fresh, platinum blonde. We’re mesmerized by this root makeover, toned to perfection by Wella Educator Marek Syřiště. Using Illumina Color to get salon-fresh locks, he applied 6/16 to the roots, 8/69 through the mid-lengths and 10/69 for those bright, light ends.
5. Root Touch Up on Deep Regrowth
Image Credit: @lucianbusuioc
This is a bold before and after. Lucian Busuioc had plenty of regrowth to work with, so he started by lifting the natural level five roots with Blondor Multi-Blonde Powder and 6%. Illumina Color 10/69 + 10/1+ Silver Mauve was then applied from root to tip, resulting in this liquid metal finish with megawatt shine.
6. Root Touch Up with Koleston Perfect
Image Credit: @stadinseita
Here’s proof that you don’t need to pre-lighten locks to lift the root area. For this beige blonde hue, Koleston Perfect’s portfolio of Special Blonde shades was used to sweep away regrowth. Special Blondes enables up to five levels of lift, so you can lighten and color in one fell swoop. This glossy result speaks for itself.
DISCOVER E-EDUCATION
Go to Wella Professionals’ online learning platform to discover new tips and master the latest techniques to use on your clients.