But, how do you know what shade of blonde toner to use? Start by looking at the underlying pigment the lightener has exposed. If the hair hasn’t yet been lightened, preempt the tone that might appear as a result of lifting.
Then, use the Wella’s Hair Color Chart and Shade Numbering System to determine the toner required to correct it. The trick is to pick out a tone that’s opposite the unwanted tone on the wheel. For example, to cancel out warm red and orange tones, use cool tones that have matte undertones, such as /2 Matt Green or /8 Ash Blue. To cool down yellow, brassy strands, add in a /6 Violet. And then do the opposite if you need to warm up a flat or dull color.
Wella’s Shade Numbering System is made up of three parts: the depth that you are lifting or have lifted to, followed by a major tone to neutralize, and a minor tone of color. So, if you’re toning level 7 medium blonde hair that’s looking orange and brassy, you could use 7/81. This would match the level of lift and give your client’s locks a dose of /8 Pearl to temper the warmth.
Pro Tip: One watch-out when toning. Applying your formula to the root area can gently lighten and illuminate the natural hair, which softens the contrast and lends a luminous result. However, if you do not wish to lighten the natural hair during toning, work slightly off the root area and apply only to the lengths and ends. You could also use a glossing service for soft, tonal results.