How to Cover Grey Roots: 9 Pro Tips for Colourists
As a colourist, you can never know too much about how to cover grey roots. Although not everyone wants to hide their greys, covering grey hair is the number one reason why clients start colouring their hair, making it one of the most popular in-salon services. So, if you’re hoping to brush up on your root coverage knowledge – especially after lockdown – look no further than this complete guide. We’ve got all the tips you need for a seamless finish.
1. The Best Hair Colour to Cover Early Greys
There’s a big difference between heavy grey distribution and a few silvery strays, which is why you shouldn’t treat all grey clients with exactly the same colour product. For blending away those first few grays, we suggest opting for a semi-permanent or demi-permanent colour, which will gently cover any wispy roots without creating a strong demarcation line when regrowth starts to come through. Try Color Touch, an ammonia free hair colour that blends up to 50% grey hair, and will create a rich colour result that lasts for up to 24 washes.
If your client does want more gray coverage, you could also try using Color Touch Plus. This covers up to 70% of the grey hair with the same benefits as the Color Touch core range.
However, for those clients who want complete coverage, moving on to a permanent colour is your best bet. Just remember that not all permanent colours are built the same. We recommend Koleston Perfect for pure, balanced results or Illumina Color for coverage that works with the highs and lows in the hair to give a more natural-looking finish.
2. The Best Hair Colour to Cover Stubborn Greys
The best colour to cover stubborn gray roots depends on the finish your client wants. If they’re looking for full coverage that never fades, the pure, permanent color of Koleston Perfect is your go-to. Then, follow these tips:
1. The formulation
Use the correct amount of natural shades in your formula. Mix 1:1 with Welloxon Perfect hair developer.
2. Application
Start applying to the area with the highest percentage of grey. This section will end up having colour on it for the longest.
3. Saturation
Saturate the roots, making sure you don’t spread the product off the root area. The new creme formula is softer and spreads easier.
4. Timing
Always check the results before rinsing to make sure the grey is covered.
3. Covering Grey Roots on Blonde Hair
If you’re doing a root smudge through blonde hair, using a bright blonde shade can look unnatural. Instead, shade the root a little deeper than the mid-lengths and ends, using a medium or dark blonde hue. If those greys are especially stubborn and your client wants them entirely blocked out, select colours from depths 8/0 or below for guaranteed 100% coverage. However, if your client wants something lighter, working with Resistant Cover shades such as 99/0 will give you a balance of a blonde finish and a soft blend of the grey hair.
4. Covering Grey Roots on Black or Brown Hair
Because of the higher contrast, grey strands tend to be more noticeable through black or brown hair, so brunette clients may appear to have a higher volume of silver strands. If the grey on dark hair is stubborn and your client wants it gone, use Koleston Perfect with Welloxon Perfect 6% and mix in a little Pure Naturals (the /0 shades) to increase grey coverage. 1/3 of Pure Naturals will be enough for 30-50% grey hair, while 1/2 Pure Naturals is recommended for more than 50% grey. Watch this video, created with Wella Professionals global brand ambassador, Patricia Nikole, for the perfect step-by-step guide.
5. Covering Grey Roots on Red Hair
As with covering grey roots on dark hair, you need to take a close look at redheaded clients’ regrowth before you pick out their formula. If heavy coverage is what they crave, use – you guessed it – Koleston Perfect, plus Welloxon Perfect 6% to achieve high coverage. Mix in 1/3 of the Rich Naturals shades (the /00 hues) for 30-50% grey and add 1/2 Rich Naturals when your client has more than 50% grey hair. Applying a vibrant red shade to white hair can result in pink roots, but we have the solution: using X/00 gives a slightly warmer direction, which is great intermixed with the Vibrant Reds family, guaranteeing the perfect combination of vibrancy and coverage.
6. How to Cover Grey Roots on Highlighted Hair
Good news: covering grey roots on highlighted hair can actually be quite simple, because the very act of highlighting helps to blend stray greys away. You don’t have to cover every grey hair with lightener – or they might not look like highlights at all – but you can cleverly place the ribbons so they glide over wispy white pieces. Try the technique with Blondor Multi Blonde Powder or use Blondor Freelights if you’re applying balayage.
7. Caring for Mid-Lengths and Ends While Covering Grey Roots
If you are only colouring the roots, why not take this opportunity to care for the lengths and ends of the hair while the colour is developing? You can do so with a Wellaplex Stand Alone Treatment, which reconstructs the hair bonds for stronger hair. Simply apply the No1 Bond Maker with water to the lengths and ends –avoiding colour on the roots – then add the No2 Bond Stabilizer over the top. Once the roots are fully developed, remove all products as normal.
8. Formulas for Grey Root Coverage
Who doesn’t love a ‘before and after’? Here are four root coverage looks we love, complete with formulas to inspire your next salon transformation…
Grey Coverage for Strawberry Blonde Hair
Image Credit: @lyndallvilehair
Lyndall Vile has done an incredible job with this double process colour, retouching the grey roots and correcting the ends for a soft strawberry blonde. To lift the regrowth, she used Illumina 9/03 + 9/43 with 6% developer, which is the perfect balance of a cool copper and beige blonde tone.
Grey Coverage for Ash Blonde Hair
Image Credit: @juditsz_hair
From warm with long regrowth to ash blonde with seamless balayage, Judit Sz has made her client’s hair look almost unrecognisable. The root coverage is courtesy of Illumina Color 6/ + 6/19 with 6% Welloxon Perfect, while ends have been cooled down using 8/38 + 8/69 with 1,9% Welloxon Perfect.
Grey Coverage for Platinum Hair
Image Credit: @guleonidaspro
While you might think white and silver roots would naturally blend in with platinum locks, the shift in tone means clients might still want a little extra coverage. For this particular look, Gustavo Leonidas applied babylights all over with Blondor 6% Welloxon Perfect, toned using Illumina Color 10/ + 10/69 with 1,9%, then added a smoky finish with 6/19 and 1,9%.
Grey Coverage for Chocolate Brown Hair
Image Credit: @salonghypehallarna
This chocolate brown hair transformation, created by Salong Hype Hallarna, sees formerly grey roots swept away and lengths turned deeper and richer. Through the roots, Illumina Color was applied using 5/7 + 5/ + 5/81 with 6% Welloxon Perfect.
