Demi- vs. Semi-Permanent Hair Color: What’s the Difference?
While semi- and demi-permanent hair colours may sound similar, there's more than a single letter that sets these two hair colour types apart. So, if you've heard your colourist mention them and wondered what they actually mean, we're here to break it down for you. Let's get into the differences between demi-permanent and semi-permanent shades...
What is Demi-Permanent Hair Colour?
Before we talk about demi-permanent colour, let's quickly cover how permanent hair colours work. They're usually formulated with ammonia, which helps to open up the hair cuticle, so the pigment can penetrate deep within the hair shaft. It's this process that makes permanent hues so intense and helps them last longer than any other colour. It's also how certain permanent colours, such as Koleston Perfect and Illumina Color, are able to give you up to 100% grey coverage.
But demi-permanent hair colours work quite differently. They gently open just the outer layer of the hair, so colour molecules can still rush in but don’t penetrate as deep. Because this colouring process isn't as intensive, demi-permanent colours may not last as long as permanent shades. However, they are also gentler to your hair and offer softer regrowth in between colour appointments.
How Long Does Demi-Permanent Colour Last?
It depends what formula your colourist is using, but if they decide to use Color Touch, your shade will fade beautifully over 28 washes. As a general rule, most demi-permanent colours last for around 24 washes, so Color Touch is the perfect pick if you want a longer-wearing hue.
Does Demi-Permanent Colour Damage Hair?
All of Wella Professionals' demi-permanent colours work to minimize hair damage, and the SHINEFINITY Color Glaze gives you a zero lift, zero damage transformation. As the No.1 salon colour brand in the world*, our products harness the latest technology to ensure all formulas are kind to your hair – so you don't have to compromise to enjoy the rich, radiant results you want.
Discover Wella’s Demi-Permanent Hair Colours:
While your hair colourist is the best person to recommend products and colour services that match your goals, it's always a good idea to head to your salon appointments with some knowledge of your own. So, before your next visit, take a look at these demi-permanent formulas…
Color Touch: With a wide range of shade options, a radiantly rich finish and soft root regrowth, Color Touch is the demi-permanent your colourist might reach for when you want distinctive toning that's kind to your hair. It's long been loved by pros, but now the iconic formula is better than ever, thanks to the new built-in Metal Purifier that gives you true-to-tone vibrant colour, no matter your hair's condition.
It's also ultra-versatile, helping you embrace fashion colours and natural hair colours for transformative toning on virgin, pre-lightened or already-coloured hair. Whether you want a colour correction for blonde hair, to personalize your balayage or embrace new root-to-tip colour, Color Touch gives you the most multi-dimensional finish. Plus, it can even be applied for natural-looking grey blending, giving you up to 70% grey coverage when using Color Touch Plus.
SHINEFINITY Color Glaze: This zero lift, zero damage, demi-permanent glaze delivers a glass-like boost of shine you can feel, available in a range of blonde, brunette, red and pastel shades. So, if you want a sheer, radiant colour that corrects, enhances and gently tones your hair, SHINEFINITY's clean, vegan and ammonia-free formula is your perfect pick.
The kind-to-hair magic is in the pH-balanced technology, which very gently opens the hair cuticle to let colour in, before the pH level drops back down to close the cuticle once more. It's the formula your colourist might use when you want a glossy, translucent veil of colour, and can be applied over the top of your current shade (great for balancing brassy hair) or onto a pre-lightened base. It's ultra-quick, too, taking no more than 20 minutes to develop (or less for a soft glow). In fact, when you try the new high-level flash glaze shades, you'll get shine and tone in just five minutes.
What is Semi-Permanent Hair Colour?
Unlike demi-permanent hair colours, semi-permanent shades only coat the surface of hair – the outer cuticle. They don't open up the outer layer of hair, so no pigment is deposited inside. This means that a semi-permanent colour may not last as long as a demi-permanent hue, although it can still offer plenty of staying power, depending on the hair base you're working with.
How Long Does Semi-Permanent Colour Last?
As a general rule, your semi-permanent shade will last for 10-20 washes, but if your hair is very light or highly porous, or the colour is bold, it could even stay visible for months. Try a semi-permanent colour if you want a low-commitment fling with a new shade or if you're hoping to enhance or correct your existing hue without the risk of potential damage.
Is Semi-Permanent Colour Damaging?
No, semi-permanent hair colour isn't damaging. Because it only tints the surface of hair, and not the inside, it has no effect on the internal structure and condition of your hair – ideal if you're a bit colour shy. So, while semi-permanent shades might not last as long as a demi-permanent or permanent hue, their zero damage finish means you can top them up as often as you want.
Discover Wella’s Semi-Permanent Hair Colours:
Before you head to your nearest Wella salon, get the full lowdown on the semi-permanent formulas available to you, with an array of beautiful shades to help you hit this season's hair trends.
Color Fresh: A conditioning colour enhancer, packed with a nourishing vitamin complex, Color Fresh is your colourist's semi-permanent product of choice for a range of rich naturals. Blondes, brunettes and redheads can all enjoy its multi-dimensional results. No damage and no lift – just a low-commitment coat of colour that revives and refreshes all hair types.
Color Fresh CREATE: If you want a damage-free way to work this season's bold and bright colour trends, look to the Color Fresh CREATE palette of rainbow shades. This semi-permanent, ammonia-free hair colour was made for the brave, with a range of vibrant hues that can be painted solo or mixed together, depending on the look you're going for. From pinks to blues, it makes any bold colour possible, and because it's so gentle, even those with damaged hair can embrace a power pop of colour.
What's the Verdict?: The Key Differences Between Demi-Permanent and Semi-Permanent Hair Colours
Now for a quick refresher. Let's look at exactly what makes demi-permanent and semi-permanent shades different, so you can head to the salon with the right goals in mind. Here's what you need to know…
- Longevity: Demi-permanent hair colours, on average, last for around 28 washes, while semi-permanent shades give you a short-term colour change that lasts for around 10-20 washes. In both cases, this may be longer if your hair is porous or very light, or the shade you're asking for is bold.
- Colour process: Semi-permanent hair colours deposit on the surface of strands, while demi-permanent colours do the same as well as gently raising the outer layer of the hair to deposit a small amount of your perfect shade inside.
- Lifting: While semi-permanent hair colour isn't designed for lifting hair, mixing demi-permanent Color Touch with the right volume developer lets your colourist very subtly lighten your hair. This makes it ideal for creating darker blonde hair colours, for example, or bumping up your current colour.
- Grey hair blending: If a touch of grey blending is important to you, a demi-permanent formula will be your better hair colour option. But if it's up to 100% coverage of greys you want, a permanent colour like Koleston Perfect or Illumina Color will be the next step up.
- Semi-permanent hair colours are all damage-free, while demi-permanent hair colours are no to low-damage. You can enjoy zero damage with the demi-permanent shades of SHINEFINITY Color Glaze.
* Wella Professionals is the N°1 salon colour brand in the world based on Wella Master Brand USD sales on the 2022 Salon Hair Care Study for the hair colouring products category published by Kline.
