How to Colour Grey Hair Blonde
Going from grey hair to blonde is a process that’s always best done by a (Wella) professional. Not only do you have to get the roots under wraps, but you need to know how to lift locks flawlessly, too. The good news is, unlike grey on dark hair, grey on blonde tends to blend a little more seamlessly, so when the post-colour regrowth comes through, clients get a softer, subtler line.
Here, we reveal how you, as a colourist, can help them reach that point, with your need-to-know guide on creating grey to blonde hair in the salon. Keep scrolling for tips, tricks, videos and formulas…
The Basics of Going from Grey Hair to Blonde
Before you begin your grey coverage technique, there are five tips you need to know. These are the basics of a blonde cover-up; the tricks that unlock your client’s dream result.
1. Assess the Percentage and Distribution of Grey
First, take a good look at your client’s hair. Assess the percentage of grey that’s present, as well as how those silver strays are distributed throughout the head. This will help you decide on the right product and technique to use. For example, if they have very heavy grey and they want it completely camouflaged with blonde, you may require a permanent hair colour that saturates the regrowth area.
2. Choose a Lightener to Add Highlights and Lift Locks
We all know the best base for blonde is Blondor. Our award-winning hair lightener comes in a variety of formats, from bond-strengthening Blondorplex to sensitive Soft Blonde Cream. Unless your client’s natural regrowth is light (or you’re using Special Blondes – but more on that later) you will need to select a product to lift their locks to the right level of blonde.
3. Pick the Best Blonde Hair Colour to Cover Grey
As well as choosing a hair lightener, finding the perfect product to cover regrowth is key. This is determined by the percentage of grey and your client’s desired look.
For up to 30% grey coverage: Apply a semi-permanent colour, like Color Fresh. It’s great for blending wispy greys, without leaving a strong line of demarcation. However, because it’s a non-oxidative hair colour, it won’t lift or lighten locks. You will need to use a pre-lightener on clients whose hair is not already blonde.
For up to 70% grey coverage: Opt for demi-permanent Color Touch or Color Touch Plus. These dreamy demis create a glossy colour result in an array of blonde hues, and last for up to 24 washes.
For up to 100% grey coverage: Go for permanent formulas, like Illumina Color or Koleston Perfect, which provide complete coverage to the target area. If you’re using KP, make sure you mix in a Pure Naturals shade. Add ⅓ Pure Naturals on hair that’s 30-50% grey and ½ Pure Naturals for hair that's 50-100% grey.
For lift and colour in one: For super-blonde colour that lifts and tones, use Koleston Perfect Special Blondes; a range of high lift hues that should be mixed 1:2 with Welloxon Perfect. Use 9% developer for three levels of lift, and 12% for three to five levels of lift.
4. Start Where Grey is Most Prominent
When applying blonde colour to regrowth, you should always start where the grey is most prominent. Targeting the dense patches first means stubborn silver strays are exposed to the colour or lightener for longer.
5. Use Heat to Speed Up the Process
If you’re hoping to reduce development time by around 50%, use a Climazon. The blast of heat means greys will be gone after 15-25 minutes. Just make sure you double-check the results before you rinse the colour out, using the tail end of a comb to peek at your client’s progress.
How to Colour Grey Hair Blonde with Highlights
While you can hide regrowth with one block colour, many clients prefer to blend greys away with highlights. Not only does this create a more natural-looking finish, but it also diffuses roots as they grow out. Apply the highlights first, starting in the area where grey is most present, and stroke the lightener from the grey roots to the tips using a tint brush.
Next, apply the root coverage, making sure you saturate the regrowth area with your client’s chosen shade. Allow colour to develop for 40 minutes (or up to 25 minutes under heat), then shampoo and neutralise. To revive lengths and ends, finish with a glossing service for soft tone and a boost of shine.
Watch: Covering Grey Hair with Highlights and Koleston Perfect
How to Colour Grey Hair Blonde with Blonde Balayage
Because grey hair starts from the root, and balayage typically sweeps through the mid-lengths and ends, it’s unlikely you’ll be using freehand highlights to camouflage silver strays. However, balayage teams flawlessly with a dimension-boosting root shadow, so you can combine the two for sun-kissed locks with not a single grey in sight.
Apply the root shadow first. Mix your client’s chosen colour and brush it into the regrowth area, feathering downwards for a softer blend. Then, lightly backcomb just below the regrowth colour. This creates separation between the root shadow and where you’re applying lightener, so the two can never mix.
Once you’ve painted through the hair in balayage strokes, allow the roots, mid-lengths and ends to develop. Then, rinse and neutralise with Blondor Seal & Care to reveal soft, seamless, painterly colour.
Watch: Covering Grey Hair with Blonde Balayage
3 Grey to Blonde Hair Transformations
1. Going from Grey to Dark Blonde Hair
Image Credit: @kai_sohn
Image Credit: @elina.color
With a low percentage of greys to cover and brassiness through the mid-lengths and ends, Elina set about creating blonde grey hair with an icy-cool finish. First, Blondor + 1.9% was used to brighten up the regrowth area, before Illumina Color 7 / + 7/81 + 1.9% and 10/69 + 10/1 + 8/69 + 1.9% was applied over the top.
3. Disguising Grey Roots with Platinum Blonde
Image Credit: @philipchatzinikitas
Can you believe this before and after? From grey regrowth and brassy ends to platinum blonde, hair was transformed using Koleston Perfect 7/18 + 9/16 + 10/86 + 6% through the roots. Afterwards, hair was glossed in shades of Illumina Color, before dried and styled ends were spritzed with EIMI Glam Mist for a boost of shine.
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