The Foolproof Way to Go from Brown to Blonde Hair

One of the first things brunette clients will ask you is whether blonde hair will suit them. The answer comes down to so much more than their base color or skin tone (although that’s important, too). In fact, there are three key factors you need to keep in mind before you pick up the tint brush, including time, lifestyle, and the processes they’ve previously put their hair through. Here’s the lowdown…

1. Look at the Undertones in Your Client’s Skin

This one’s a given. When you’re helping your client choose their perfect shade of blonde, it’s important to take the undertones of their skin into account. There’s a type of blonde for everyone and finding their most flattering hue means – quite simply – identifying whether they are cool- or warm-toned.

If they have pinky tones, blue veins and cool eye colors like blue, gray or cool brown: they tend to suit cooler blondes, like ash, ice or platinum. They can pull off anything from pale Scandi-inspired shades to a brightening, expensive-looking beiges.

If they have yellow or golden tones, green veins and warm eye colors like gold and hazel: warm blondes will be more their style. Think honey blonde, dark blonde, bronde… the list of rich, creamy colors goes on.

2. Consider Your Client’s Hair History

It’s a good idea to speak to your client about their hair history. Have they colored their hair before? What kind of colors have been used? These are both factors that affect the final outcome. A great way to predict the finished result is to do a strand test ahead of their main appointment. Simply take a strand of hair and apply your exact formulation to it, then use this as a guide.

3. Remind Them of the Time it Takes

Real talk: going from brown to blonde hair can be a lengthy, time-consuming process – not to mention the level of aftercare and touch-up appointments involved. When your client asks, ‘how long does it take to go from brown to blonde hair?’, these are the three essential timings they need to know…

How long in the salon? This one depends on how well the pre-lightener and toner takes to the hair, but clients should put a minimum of three hours aside for the transformation – often more. Make them aware of the time it takes when they’re booking their appointment, as it’s likely they’ll want to call off any other plans they have that day.

How many lightening appointments are needed? Most brown-haired clients will require at least two appointments to reach their dream blonde shade. If they’re going from dark brown or black hair to blonde, it may even take a few more. Make sure the sessions are spaced out, so they can maintain the condition of their hair, treating locks to plenty of masks before their next blonding session.

How long between salon sessions? Going from brown to blonde hair is not a one-and-done job. Clients need to return to the salon regularly to keep roots at bay and their blonde looking fresh. Typically, this means booking in every six-eight weeks, although they may be able to leave it longer if they opt for balayage.

1. Choose a Highlighting Technique

Before lightening locks, talk to your client about the kind of highlight placement they’re looking for. Do they want balayage? An ombre effect? Or all-over blonde highlights? All techniques can be dialed up or down depending on their desired look, meaning anything is possible, from soft and subtle to bold and dramatic.

2. Pre-Lighten the Hair

It goes without saying that, to lighten brown hair, you need a good pre hair lightener. Award-winning Blondor is our go-to, with a selection of lifting products, from Blondor Freelights to Blondor Soft Blonde Cream. Apply to hair in the chosen technique and remove when you’ve achieved the right level of underlying pigment.

3. Apply a Toner

Think of toner as a topcoat to your pre-lightener. You can use it to personalize the shade of blonde, opting for a demi-permanent like Color Touch or permanent Koleston Perfect. Both offer up a whole host of luminous, light-reflective blondes,

4. Rinse and Repeat… in a Few Weeks

If you don’t achieve the most flawless blonde first time, wait around six weeks before you repeat steps two and three. In the meantime, clients should be following the section below to keep their hair in tip-top condition.

As well as topping up the toner and lightener every six to eight weeks (less if you go for balayage!), the condition of hair needs to be maintained in the wake of a brunette-to-blonde transformation. Switch to a color-safe range, like INVIGO Color Brilliance, which features the haircare basics (Shampoo, Conditioner and Mask) as well as a Miracle BB Spray that softens ends.

They should also consider using a pigment-depositing treatment as a weekly treat, using INVIGO Blonde Recharge Cool Blonde Color Refreshing Conditioner if hair is cool, and Warm Blonde Color Refreshing Conditioner on warm-toned locks.