Ammonia-Free Hair Color: The Ultimate Guide For Hair Color Pros
When it comes to permanent hair colors that go the distance, ammonia is a tried-and-true ingredient. There's a reason it’s appeared on ingredient lists for such best-selling products as Koleston Perfect. But what about ammonia-free hair colors? Here, we're breaking down the benefits of going with or without ammonia, so you can make the right choice for your clients.
Let's take a closer look at ammonia-free hair products...
What is Ammonia-Free Hair Color?
Ammonia-free color is, quite simply, hair color made without ammonia. So, let's get into the bigger question: what is ammonia? Put simply, it's an alkaline chemical that’s used in oxidative color to raise the pH level of your hair. In doing so, this active ingredient lifts the hair cuticle, which allows the color molecules to work their way into each strand. The result? A long-lasting, vibrant and intense tone with show-stopping shine.
But not all hair colors need ammonia. Take semi-permanent and temporary hair colors, for example. They're designed to coat the surface of the hair shaft rather than work inside strands, which makes them perfect for a low-commitment color boost. Where the ammonia vs. ammonia-free debate really comes into play is when we’re talking about demi-permanent and permanent hair color. These are the main differences between each product…
Permanent Hair Color: When your client wants up to 100% gray coverage, a more dramatic color transformation, or a long-lasting shade, permanent products like Koleston Perfect and Illumina Color are your go-tos. We use ammonia in both, because the active ingredient has been proven to deliver the desired result. Think pure, brilliant color that keeps silver strays under wraps, and lasts longer than any other product.
Demi-Permanent Hair Color: Longer-lasting than semi-permanent products but lower in commitment than permanent hair dye, demi-permanent hair color is oxidative yet ammonia-free. It still harnesses an alkali ingredient to gently raise the cuticle, but it's just a small opening, so color molecules can deposit within the strand. Results can range from vibrant with Color Touch to translucent with SHINEFINITY, but they all have one thing in common: they're gentle on hair and offer soft regrowth.
What is the Difference Between Hair Dye With Ammonia and Without Ammonia?
When you see the words 'ammonia-free' stamped on the front of hair color boxes, it's natural to assume that ammonia = bad news for the health of your hair. But there's a reason ammonia formulas keep standing the test of time: as far as permanent hair coloring goes, there's no better way to achieve long-lasting results.
Hair colors with and without ammonia both have their place in the salon, as they each offer their own individual benefits. Let's explore what those benefits are, so you can make the right choice for your clients...
The Benefits of Hair Color With Ammonia:
Vibrancy and Intensity
When intense color is the goal, a permanent hair color with ammonia is a perfect choice. Try Koleston Perfect; our iconic product, which pairs pure, balanced results with the damage-defying Metal Purifier. The extensive shade palette opens up a world of possibilities, from natural hues of blonde, brunette and red, to head-turning bolds and pastels. Or, if you're looking to enhance the light reflections in hair, reach for Illumina Color. It veils hair in stunning luminosity, while working with your client's natural tone. Also infused with Metal Purifier, it comes in a range of brown, red and blonde hair shades. You can also discover stunning metallics in the Opal-Essence by Illumina Color collection.
Long-Lasting Color
While you can also enjoy long-lasting shades with a demi-permanent hair color, the deep penetration of permanent products means they tend to go the extra mile. They work deep within the shaft, so you get rich, radiant results. And while they don't last forever – color grows out over time – you can typically enjoy permanent hair colors for 6-12 weeks (or 4-8 weeks if you're using them as part of a gloss).
Up to 100% Gray Hair Coverage
For clients who want to cover gray hair, permanent hair color is their best solution. Both Koleston Perfect and Illumina Color give up to 100% coverage, so strays stay completely under wraps. Even stubborn silver strands can be blended away, with Koleston Xpress paving the way for quick root touch-ups when needed. It disguises gray regrowth in just 10 minutes.
The Benefits of Ammonia-Free Formulas:
Gentler On Hair
The biggest benefit of ammonia-free hair colors is that they're gentle on your hair. Case in point: both SHINEFINITY and Color Touch offer zero-damage color (when hair hasn't been pre-lightened as part of the service). This is because they only slightly lift the hair cuticle to let the color molecules in. So, if your client is worried about damage but still wants a shade switch, ammonia-free Color Touch and SHINEFINITY are their perfect picks. Color Touch can even give you up to 70% gray coverage (with Color Touch Plus) and intense vibrancy while remaining kind to locks.
Softer Regrowth
Healthier hair isn't the only bonus of demi-permanent shades like Color Touch. Because they're lower-commitment than permanent hair colors, they offer softer regrowth for the most natural look. Ammonia-free products may also be better for sensitive scalps, so if your client is struggling with irritated skin, you may choose to recommend a demi-permanent hair color. You could also protect their scalp with the Marula Oil Blend Scalp Primer, which shields skin during the dyeing process with no compromise on the final result.
Odorless Experience
Ammonia can have a pungent odor, so if your client is sensitive to smell, they may prefer the experience of having an ammonia-free hair color applied. Of course, the smell of ammonia colors is a small price to pay if they want the results of permanent hair color. But if they love the other benefits of ammonia-free shades, the lack of strong odor is an added bonus.
What's the Best Ammonia-Free Hair Color?
In the Wella portfolio, we offer a range of ammonia-free products to tone color to perfection. Choose from one of these bestsellers…
Color Touch
When keeping hair vibrant is top of the agenda, Color Touch is your perfect ammonia-free product. This demi-permanent hair color is famed for its rich finish, as well as its extensive range of colors. From blonde to red to dark hair hues – as well as bold brights in the Special Mix palette – it's ideal for correcting and toning, as well as personalizing a pre-lightened base.
SHINEFINITY Color Glaze
With zero lift and zero damage, SHINEFINITY enhances your client's natural color, bathing strands in radiance and a sheer, translucent finish. This nurturing hair color glaze uses balanced pH technology to swiftly raise the cuticle, so color molecules can rush in, before closing again to give you a dreamy shade that keeps hair shiny and respects its integrity. Choose from a range of cool, warm and neutral hues for blondes, brunettes and redheads, along with soft pastels, and blue and violet boosters for those clients who love to experiment.
Color Fresh
Our popular semi-permanent dye is a favorite of hair color pros, acting as a beautifying enhancer that quickly transforms dull locks and keeps brassiness at bay. Color Fresh is ideal for an in-between services refresh, harnessing a conditioning vitamin complex to give you hair care and color in one. Apply directly to shampooed, towel-dried strands and allow to develop for up to 20 minutes.
Color Fresh CREATE
Another semi-permanent hair toner; Color Fresh CREATE makes all of your client's bright hair dreams come true. There are 12 shades in the line-up, from a vivid neon yellow, to a bold cobalt blue, to a trend-ready fuchsia. Plus, the full palette is intermixable, meaning you can create bespoke colors. Plus, the Tomorrow Clear additive allows you to pastelize your masterpiece for a softer, subtler look.
Can Ammonia-Free Hair Dyes Give Gray Coverage?
Some ammonia-free hair colors can be used to gently blend away stray grays. For example, Color Touch gives you up to 50% coverage and you get up to 70% with Color Touch Plus. But if it’s up to 100% coverage you want, hair colors with ammonia, like Koleston Perfect, will be your best choice. If you’re focusing on regrowth alone, you can also use Koleston Xpress for a root touch-up in 10 minutes.
Choosing which hair color product to go for all comes down to your client’s goals, and understanding the benefits of ammonia vs. ammonia-free will help you guide them in the right direction. Whichever Wella product you use, we'd love to see your masterpieces. Don't forget to share them with us on Instagram by tagging us @WellaHairUSA.
