How Long Does Permanent Hair Color Last? Plus Tips to Keep Locks

Of all the hair color types available – from semi-permanent to demi-permanent to temporary – permanent hair color gives you the longest-lasting, most lustrous results. But, in spite of its name, that hair transformation isn't going to last forever. Here, the word 'permanent' relates to how it changes the structure of the hair strands the color is applied to.

Put simply, permanent hair colors will permanently alter the structure of hair. This is because they open up the hair cuticle, so that pigment can be deposited deep within. It's this penetrating process that makes permanent hair colors so rich and radiant, and it's also why you get such a long-lasting finish from your favorite permanent shades.

Which brings us to exactly how long they last. Permanent hair colors technically last until the color grows out, or until you recolor your client's hair – but they can fade over time. It may take anywhere between 6-12 weeks for the fading to be visible. But, of course, this all depends on the hair type and color products you're working with.

It also comes down to these key factors during your client’s color appointment...

The Shade Intensity

Are you applying a light shade, a dark shade or a vibrant rainbow hue? The intensity of your client’s color will have a big impact on how long it lasts. As a general rule of thumb, darker colors tend to stay on the hair for longer. So, if you’re adding lowlights, a root shadow or all-over depth, the shade will offer more mileage than, for example, light blondes, light browns or light reds. The same goes for pastel colors versus rainbow colors. Pastels will fade faster than vivid brights, which is why we recommend painting pastel hair in a bolder-than-desired shade to start with, so the vibrancy lasts.

The Color Service

Traditional coloring with a permanent hair color will give you the longest-lasting results, so if you’re looking to add depth and tone to your client’s hair, keep the 6–12-week timeline in mind. However, if you’re using a permanent color to gloss the hair, you’re delivering a sheerer result which may last closer to 4-8 weeks.

Case in point: the Koleston Perfect Pure Glossing Service, which sees your client’s choice of permanent shade mixed at a 1:1:1 ratio with Welloxon Perfect 1.9% and INVIGO Color Service Post Hair Color Treatment. The gloss can be used to neutralize brassiness, refresh existing color or create a subtle shade change, but its sheer finish means it may fade sooner than a traditional Koleston Perfect coloring service. However, a Pure Glossing Service is great for touching up the tone in between regular appointments, when longevity is less of a goal and your client is craving a color boost.

Permanent hair color doesn't 'wash out' exactly, but it can fade over time (especially in porous hair) – and a key step to preventing that shade fade is understanding why it happens in the first place. These are just some of the culprits behind lackluster color...

1. The Hair is Too Porous

The porosity of hair refers to its ability to absorb and retain moisture. Highly porous hair may grab onto color and soak up more of the dyes, but it's also prone to faster fading than low porosity hair. This is because, for strands to be porous, there must be gaps along the cuticle, which are usually caused by hair damage. These gaps allow moisture, water, nutrients and – you guessed it – color pigments to rush out. So, if your client finds their permanent color isn't lasting as long as they'd hoped, it could be a sign that damage repair is needed to 'plug' porous locks.

2. Your Client's Care Routine Needs Help

If your client isn't using color-safe shampoos and conditioners, their everyday care formulas could be too harsh for their freshly colored hair. It's important to use gentle yet effective shampoos that cleanse without stripping strands. Using pH-balanced products is crucial too, as these will help to close the cuticle, ensuring better color retention. For the best results, protecting hair from shade-fading metals is also key – which is why all of our care products feature the Metal Purifier. If your client then follows their shampoo with a shine-enhancing conditioner or nourishing hair mask, they'll keep their permanent hair color vibrant for longer.

3. The Hair Has Been Exposed to Heat, Chlorine and UV Rays

In the summer months especially, maintaining color-treated hair can be tricky. Scorching UV rays and the lure of the ocean and swimming pool put your client's shade at risk of fast fading. But this isn't just a summer problem; UV rays are always present, and your client may like to swim all year round. So, make sure they're aware of how these everyday aggressors might impact their perfect shade.

Now, let's look at the ways your client can enjoy their permanent color for longer. These are the hair products, tips and tricks that will enhance their at-home routine...

1. Wash With a Color-Safe Shampoo

Top of your client's agenda should be a color-safe shampoo, specially formulated to keep those color molecules intact for longer. At Wella, we offer a range of color-locking cleansers for all hair types, whether tresses need a dose of shine or deeply restorative care.

For Vibrancy: INVIGO Brilliance Color Protection Shampoo

Infused with antioxidant-rich Lime Caviar and Metal Purifier, this shine-boosting shampoo boasts a low pH formula to seal the cuticle after coloring, which increases color retention. Follow up with the Vibrant Color Conditioner to complete this caring routine. Both the shampoo and conditioner come in two versions – one for fine to medium hair and one for thick or coarse hair – so it's easy to enhance your color while tending to each hair type’s individual needs.

For Nourishment: ColorMotion+ Color Protection Shampoo

If the hair needs a little more nourishment, try this antioxidant-infused shampoo with Metal Purifier, which gently cleanses locks and offers up to eight weeks of color protection¹. Fading free radicals are kept at bay, while locks are left shinier and stronger. Team it with the Moisturizing Color Reflection Conditioner or, to take nourishment even further, the creamy Structure+ Mask.

For Damage Repair: Ultimate Repair Shampoo

If your client's hair is damaged and/or highly porous, this is their go-to savior. It's infused with Metal Purifier and skincare-inspired ingredients to care for every hair type, from straight to wavy to curly to coily. There's AHA, which rebuilds the bonds inside each strand for a strong hair core, and Omega-9, which replenishes the outermost layer by filling in the damaged cuticle. Follow up with the Ultimate Repair Conditioner; an ultra-creamy formula that rinses clean to leave tresses weightlessly nourished.

2. Keep the Tap Set to Lukewarm

Tell your client to avoid hot water when washing their hair, as it can stress out their strands, dry them out, and even open up the cuticle to allow permanent pigments to seep out. Instead, they should stick to lukewarm water. After shampoo has been rinsed out, they can also try a final blast of cold water to make their color shine.

3. Repair Damaged Hair in 90 Seconds

Keeping permanent hair color fresh isn't just about locking in pigments. The healthier and more hydrated locks are, the better your client's shade is going to look. So, to prevent future stress and repair existing damage in just 90 seconds², introduce your client to Ultimate Repair Miracle Hair Rescue. This lightweight, liquid, leave-in treatment should be misted through clean, towel-dried tresses, then allowed to be absorbed for 90 seconds. After that, your client can style their tresses as they usually would – but now with 12x smoother hair³ and up to 99% less breakage⁴.

4. Apply Daily Sun and Heat Protection

There are two protective products every client with colored hair needs. First up, a heat protectant spray to safeguard strands from the damaging effects of blow-drying, straightening and curling. Try EIMI Thermal Image, which acts like an invisible shield, while delivering a dose of shine that boosts your client’s favorite styles. Then, recommend they finish their look with EIMI Glam Mist. It veils locks in a lustrous sheen that also protects hair from humidity and UV damage.

5. Shield Locks From the Effects of Chlorine

Hair is like a sponge. It soaks up any moisture it comes into contact with, but it also reaches a saturation point, which is when it stops absorbing liquid. Keep this in mind if your client loves swimming. To protect their locks from the drying and color-fading effects of chlorine, they should soak their hair with clean, pure water before plunging into the pool. This way, strands won’t be able to soak up as much of the chlorine; their colored hair will be protected by the fresh water it’s already absorbed.

6. Top Up with a Color-Depositing Conditioner

Your client can refresh their permanent color in between salon visits. All they need is a spare 10 minutes and the Color Fresh Mask in a shade that best matches their own. There are 13 to choose from, including cool blondes, warm brunettes, pastels and rainbow brights. So, if they’re interested in topping up their tone at home, help your client pick their perfect hue. Then, show them how to use it. All they need to do is apply it to clean, damp hair, in place of conditioner, then allow it to absorb for 10 minutes. Once the mask has been rinsed, their color will appear revived.