How to Cover Gray Roots: 9 Pro Tips for Colorists
As a colorist, you can never know too much about how to cover gray roots. Although not everyone wants to hide their grays, covering gray hair is the number one reason why clients start coloring their hair, making it one of the most popular in-salon services. So, if you’re hoping to brush up on your root coverage knowledge – especially after lockdown – look no further than this complete guide. We’ve got all the tips you need for a seamless finish.
1. The Best Hair Color to Cover Early Grays
There’s a big difference between heavy gray distribution and a few silvery strays, which is why you shouldn’t treat all gray clients with exactly the same color product. For blending away those first few grays, we suggest opting for a semi-permanent or demi-permanent color, which will gently cover any wispy roots without creating a strong demarcation line when regrowth starts to come through. Try Color Touch, an ammonia free hair color that blends up to 50% gray hair, and will create a rich color result that lasts for up to 24 washes.
If your client does want more gray coverage, you could also try using Color Touch Plus. This covers up to 70% of the grey hair with the same benefits as the Color Touch core range.
However, for those clients who want complete coverage, moving on to a permanent color is your best bet. Just remember that not all permanent colors are built the same. We recommend Koleston Perfect for pure, balanced results or Illumina Color for coverage that works with the highs and lows in the hair to give a more natural-looking finish.
2. The Best Hair Color to Cover Stubborn Grays
The best color to cover stubborn gray roots depends on the finish your client wants. If they’re looking for full coverage that never fades, the pure, permanent color of Koleston Perfect is your go-to. Then, follow these tips:
1. The formulation
Use the correct amount of natural shades in your formula. Mix 1:1 with Welloxon Perfect hair developer.
2. Application
Start applying to the area with the highest percentage of gray. This section will end up having color on it for the longest.
3. Saturation
Saturate the roots, making sure you don’t spread the product off the root area. The new creme formula is softer and spreads easier.
4. Timing
Always check the results before rinsing to make sure the gray is covered.
3. Covering Gray Roots on Blonde Hair
If you’re doing a root smudge through blonde hair, using a bright blonde shade can look unnatural. Instead, shade the root a little deeper than the mid-lengths and ends, using a medium or dark blonde hue. If those grays are especially stubborn and your client wants them entirely blocked out, select colors from depths 8/0 or below for guaranteed 100% coverage. However, if your client wants something lighter, working with Resistant Cover shades such as 99/0 will give you a balance of a blonde finish and a soft blend of the gray hair.
4. Covering Gray Roots on Black or Brown Hair
Because of the higher contrast, gray strands tend to be more noticeable through black or brown hair, so brunette clients may appear to have a higher volume of silver strands. If the gray on dark hair is stubborn and your client wants it gone, use Koleston Perfect with Welloxon Perfect 6% and mix in a little Pure Naturals to increase gray coverage. 1/3 of Pure Naturals will be enough for 30-50% gray hair, while 1/2 Pure Naturals is recommended for more than 50% gray. Watch this video, created with Wella Professionals global brand ambassador, Patricia Nikole, for the perfect step-by-step guide.
5. Covering Gray Roots on Red Hair
As with covering gray roots on dark hair, you need to take a close look at redheaded clients’ regrowth before you pick out their formula. If heavy coverage is what they crave, use – you guessed it – Koleston Perfect, plus Welloxon Perfect 6% to achieve high coverage. Mix in 1/3 of the Rich Naturals shades for 30-50% gray and add 1/2 Rich Naturals when your client has more than 50% gray hair.
6. How to Cover Gray Roots on Highlighted Hair
Good news: covering gray roots on highlighted hair can actually be quite simple, because the very act of highlighting helps to blend stray grays away. You don’t have to cover every gray hair with lightener – or they might not look like highlights at all – but you can cleverly place the ribbons so they glide over wispy white pieces. Try the technique with Blondor Multi Blonde Powder or use Blondorplex if you’re applying balayage.
7. How to Cover Gray Roots Between Color Appointments
For those clients who ask you how they can cover gray roots between color appointments, recommend Insta Recharge Root Concealer, which is a powder compact with a handy brush that can be swept onto dry hair. You can buy it on the WellaStore and sell it in the salon, with five easy-to-blend shades available, from Light Blonde to Black.
8. Caring for Mid-Lengths and Ends While Covering Gray Roots
If you are only coloring the roots, why not take this opportunity to care for the lengths and ends of the hair while the color is developing? You can do so with a Wellaplex Stand Alone Treatment, which reconstructs the hair bonds for stronger hair. Simply apply the No1 Bond Maker with water to the lengths and ends –avoiding color on the roots – then add the No2 Bond Stabilizer over the top. Once the roots are fully developed, remove all products as normal.
9. Formulas for Gray Root Coverage
Who doesn’t love a ‘before and after’? Here are four root coverage looks we love, complete with formulas to inspire your next salon transformation…
Gray Coverage for Strawberry Blonde Hair
Image Credit: @lyndallvilehair
Lyndall Vile has done an incredible job with this double process color, retouching the gray roots and correcting the ends for a soft strawberry blonde. To lift the regrowth, she used Illumina 9/03 + 9/43 with 6% developer, which is the perfect balance of a cool copper and beige blonde tone.
Gray Coverage for Ash Blonde Hair
Image Credit: @juditsz_hair
From warm with long regrowth to ash blonde with seamless balayage, Judit Sz has made her client’s hair look almost unrecognisable. The root coverage is courtesy of Illumina Color 6/ + 6/19 with 6% Welloxon Perfect, while ends have been cooled down using 8/38 + 8/69 with 1,9% Welloxon Perfect Pastel.
Gray Coverage for Platinum Hair
Image Credit: @guleonidaspro
While you might think white and silver roots would naturally blend in with platinum locks, the shift in tone means clients might still want a little extra coverage. For this particular look, Gustavo Leonidas applied babylights all over with Blondor 6% Welloxon Perfect, toned using Illumina Color 10/ + 10/69 with 1,9% Pastel, then added a smoky finish with 6/19 and 1,9% Pastel.
Gray Coverage for Chocolate Brown Hair
Image Credit: @salonghypehallarna
This chocolate brown hair transformation, created by Salong Hype Hallarna, sees formerly gray roots swept away and lengths turned deeper and richer. Through the roots, Illumina Color was applied using 5/7 + 5/ + 5/81 with 6% Welloxon Perfect.
