How to Cover Gray Roots on Dark or Brunette Hair
1. Mix the Perfect Formula
It goes without saying that every good color creation starts with the perfect formula. How you mix it will all come down to the level of gray you’re working with…
For up to 30% gray: Find a shade that matches your client’s mid-lengths or the darkest part of their regrowth, and add . This should be enough to disguise wispy grays through the temples and roots.
For 30-50% gray: You’ll still want to add to your client’s desired Koleston Perfect hue. Try mixing in 1/3 Pure Naturals (the /0 shades) too, which will increase gray coverage.
For more than 50% gray: This is where your client might want to achieve the highest coverage. Add the 6% Welloxon Perfect, but go for 1/2 Pure Naturals whipped up with your client’s shade. For dark hair with a red tinge – think mahogany or burgundy – add 1/2 Rich Naturals (the /00 shades) instead, which will help to maintain the depth and richness of a red.
2. Saturate the Roots
‘Easy does it’ isn’t your mantra here. Don’t be afraid to saturate the roots with color, using a large tint brush to reach every layer and really cover those grays. For clients who are ultra-conscious of silver strands, you can even go back in halfway through developing, adding a little more formula to any particularly stubborn roots.
3. Check Developing Color
While it might sound obvious, keeping an eye on developing color is a must. The last thing you want to do is rinse out a tint before it’s had the chance to work its magic. Typically, color needs 15-25 minutes with heat and 40 minutes without, but you can extend the development if the hair is resistant, keeping in mind that the maximum development time is 40 minutes. To check how it’s going, use the end of a tail comb to gently slide color off a section of the roots, then look for any lightness peeking through. If you spot it, the color still needs more time.
4. Get a Little Gloss
This doesn’t technically cover the roots, but hair that’s going gray tends to be a little drier, which can result in a dull, lackluster finish from root to tip. If your client wants to go for a glow, suggest following up root cover-up with a glossing service, which will subtly enhance their color and give their locks a high-shine boost.