Ammonia-Free Hair Colour: The Ultimate Guide For Hair Colour Pros
When it comes to permanent hair colours that go the distance, ammonia is a tried-and-true ingredient. There's a reason it’s appeared on ingredient lists for such best-selling products as Koleston Perfect. But what about ammonia-free hair colours? Here, we're breaking down the benefits of going with or without ammonia, so you can make the right choice for your clients.
Let's take a closer look at ammonia-free hair products...
What is Ammonia-Free Hair Colour?
Ammonia-free colour is, quite simply, hair colour made without ammonia. So, let's get into the bigger question: what is ammonia? Put simply, it's an alkaline chemical that’s used in oxidative colour to raise the pH level of your hair. In doing so, this active ingredient lifts the hair cuticle, which allows the colour molecules to work their way into each strand. The result? A long-lasting, vibrant and intense tone with show-stopping shine.
But not all hair colours need ammonia. Take semi-permanent and temporary hair colours, for example. They're designed to coat the surface of the hair shaft rather than work inside strands, which makes them perfect for a low-commitment colour boost. Where the ammonia vs. ammonia-free debate really comes into play is when we’re talking about demi-permanent and permanent hair colour. These are the main differences between each product…
Permanent Hair Colour: When your client wants up to 100% grey coverage, a more dramatic colour transformation, or a long-lasting shade, permanent products like Koleston Perfect and Illumina Color are your go-tos. We use ammonia in both, because the active ingredient has been proven to deliver the desired result. Think pure, brilliant colour that keeps silver strays under wraps, and lasts longer than any other product.
Demi-Permanent Hair Colour: Longer-lasting than semi-permanent products but lower in commitment than permanent hair dye, demi-permanent hair colour is oxidative yet ammonia-free. It still harnesses an alkali ingredient to gently raise the cuticle, but it's just a small opening, so colour molecules can deposit within the strand. Results can range from vibrant with Color Touch to translucent with SHINEFINITY, but they all have one thing in common: they're gentle on hair and offer soft regrowth.
What is the Difference Between Hair Dye With Ammonia and Without Ammonia?
When you see the words 'ammonia-free' stamped on the front of hair colour boxes, it's natural to assume that ammonia = bad news for the health of your hair. But there's a reason ammonia formulas keep standing the test of time: as far as permanent hair colouring goes, there's no better way to achieve long-lasting results.
Hair colours with and without ammonia both have their place in the salon, as they each offer their own individual benefits. Let's explore what those benefits are, so you can make the right choice for your clients...
The Benefits of Hair Colour With Ammonia:
Vibrancy and Intensity
When intense colour is the goal, a permanent hair colour with ammonia is a perfect choice. Try Koleston Perfect; our iconic product, which pairs pure, balanced results with the damage-defying Metal Purifier. The extensive shade palette opens up a world of possibilities, from natural hues of blonde, brunette and red, to head-turning bolds and pastels. Or, if you're looking to enhance the light reflections in hair, reach for Illumina Color. It veils hair in stunning luminosity, while working with your client's natural tone. Also infused with Metal Purifier, it comes in a range of brown, red and blonde hair shades. You can also discover stunning metallics in the Opal-Essence by Illumina Color collection.
Long-Lasting Colour
While you can also enjoy long-lasting shades with a demi-permanent hair colour, the deep penetration of permanent products means they tend to go the extra mile. They work deep within the shaft, so you get rich, radiant results. And while they don't last forever – colour grows out over time – you can typically enjoy permanent hair colours for 6-12 weeks (or 4-8 weeks if you're using them as part of a gloss).
Up to 100% Grey Hair Coverage
For clients who want to cover grey hair, permanent hair colour is their best solution. Both Koleston Perfect and Illumina Color give up to 100% coverage, so strays stay completely under wraps.
The Benefits of Ammonia-Free Formulas:
Gentler On Hair
The biggest benefit of ammonia-free hair colours is that they're gentle on your hair. Case in point: both SHINEFINITY and Color Touch offer zero-damage colour (when hair hasn't been pre-lightened as part of the service). This is because they only slightly lift the hair cuticle to let the colour molecules in. So, if your client is worried about damage but still wants a shade switch, ammonia-free Color Touch and SHINEFINITY are their perfect picks. Color Touch can even give you up to 70% grey coverage (with Color Touch Plus) and intense vibrancy while remaining kind to locks.
Softer Regrowth
Healthier hair isn't the only bonus of demi-permanent shades like Color Touch. Because they're lower-commitment than permanent hair colours, they offer softer regrowth for the most natural look. Ammonia-free products may also be better for sensitive scalps, so if your client is struggling with irritated skin, you may choose to recommend a demi-permanent hair colour. You could also protect their scalp with the Marula Oil Blend Scalp Primer, which shields skin during the dyeing process with no compromise on the final result.
Odourless Experience
Ammonia can have a pungent odour, so if your client is sensitive to smell, they may prefer the experience of having an ammonia-free hair colour applied. Of course, the smell of ammonia colours is a small price to pay if they want the results of permanent hair colour. But if they love the other benefits of ammonia-free shades, the lack of strong odour is an added bonus.
What's the Best Ammonia-Free Hair Colour?
In the Wella portfolio, we offer a range of ammonia-free products to tone colour to perfection. Choose from one of these bestsellers…
Color Touch
When keeping hair vibrant is top of the agenda, Color Touch is your perfect ammonia-free product. This demi-permanent hair colour is famed for its rich finish, as well as its extensive range of colours. From blonde to red to dark hair hues – as well as bold brights in the Special Mix palette – it's ideal for correcting and toning, as well as personalizing a pre-lightened base.
SHINEFINITY Colour Glaze
With zero lift and zero damage, SHINEFINITY enhances your client's natural colour, bathing strands in radiance and a sheer, translucent finish. This nurturing hair colour glaze uses balanced pH technology to swiftly raise the cuticle, so colour molecules can rush in, before closing again to give you a dreamy shade that keeps hair shiny and respects its integrity. Choose from a range of cool, warm and neutral hues for blondes, brunettes and redheads, along with soft pastels, and blue and violet boosters for those clients who love to experiment.
Color Fresh
Our popular semi-permanent dye is a favorite of hair colour pros, acting as a beautifying enhancer that quickly transforms dull locks and keeps brassiness at bay. Color Fresh is ideal for an in-between services refresh, harnessing a conditioning vitamin complex to give you hair care and colour in one. Apply directly to shampooed, towel-dried strands and allow to develop for up to 20 minutes.
Color Fresh CREATE
Another semi-permanent hair toner; Color Fresh CREATE makes all of your client's bright hair dreams come true. There are 12 shades in the line-up, from a vivid neon yellow, to a bold cobalt blue, to a trend-ready fuchsia. Plus, the full palette is intermixable, meaning you can create bespoke colours. Plus, the Tomorrow Clear additive allows you to pastelize your masterpiece for a softer, subtler look.
Can Ammonia-Free Hair Dyes Give Grey Coverage?
Some ammonia-free hair colours can be used to gently blend away stray greys. For example, Color Touch gives you up to 50% coverage and you get up to 70% with Color Touch Plus. But if it’s up to 100% coverage you want, hair colours with ammonia, like Koleston Perfect, will be your best choice.
Choosing which hair colour product to go for all comes down to your client’s goals, and understanding the benefits of ammonia vs. ammonia-free will help you guide them in the right direction. Whichever Wella product you use, we'd love to see your masterpieces. Don't forget to share them with us on Instagram by tagging us @WellaHairUKI.
