1. Make Sure You Mix Enough Natural In
It’s vital to add enough natural to your client’s target shade. This is how you ensure the finished look appears flawlessly natural. The Koleston Perfect Pure Naturals family features a spectrum of warm and cool tones, each offering up to 100% coverage of grays. Not sure how much to use? Add in ⅓ of a Pure Naturals shade on hair that’s 30%-50% gray and ½ of a Pure Naturals shade for hair that's 50%-100% gray.
2. Cover Stubborn Grays First
You should always apply color to the most stubborn gray hairs first. As they’re more resistant to color, they’ll benefit from the extra development time.
3. Use Heat to Speed Up the Process
You can reduce development time by around 50% by using a climazone. Take a look at the examples with and without heat above. Under heat, you’ll need 15-25 minutes, while you should aim for 30-40 minutes without heat. Just make sure you double-check the results before you head to the backwash.
4. Protect the Hairline with Resistant Cover Shades
If you’re applying Resistant Cover shades, be careful not to stain the hairline. The hair here is often finer, so the Resistant Cover shades may grab and go darker. In this case, we recommend using a lighter hue near the face, and applying it last, so it doesn’t develop for too long. If there’s minimal gray through the front, consider avoiding the area, or lightly feathering the color towards the front with the tip of your brush.
5. Try Brickwork Application
Perfect for an even result, the brickwork application method helps you camouflage gray hair without banding. Start by sectioning hair from ear to ear behind the crown, then apply color, working from the crown to the back in fine sections. Focus on the root area only, sweeping the formula on both sides of each strand. Continue all through the back before moving to the front of the hair.