Before you begin your gray coverage technique, there are five tips you need to know. These are the basics of a blonde cover-up; the tricks that unlock your client’s dream result.
1. Assess the Percentage and Distribution of Gray
First, take a good look at your client’s hair. Assess the percentage of gray that’s present, as well as how those silver strays are distributed throughout the head. This will help you decide on the right product and technique to use. For example, if they have very heavy gray and they want it completely camouflaged with blonde, you may require a permanent hair color that saturates the regrowth area.
2. Choose a Lightener to Add Highlights and Lift Locks
We all know the best base for blonde is Blondor. Our award-winning hair lightener comes in a variety of formats, from bond-strengthening Blondorplex to sensitive Soft Blonde Cream. Unless your client’s natural regrowth is light (or you’re using Special Blondes – but more on that later) you will need to select a product to lift their locks to the right level of blonde.
3. Pick the Best Blonde Hair Color to Cover Gray
As well as choosing a lightener, finding the perfect product to cover regrowth is key. This is determined by the percentage of gray and your client’s desired look.
For up to 30% gray coverage: Apply a semi-permanent color, like Color Fresh. It’s great for blending wispy grays, without leaving a strong line of demarcation. However, because it’s a non-oxidative hair color, it won’t lift or lighten locks. You will need to use a pre-lightener on clients whose hair is not already blonde.
For up to 70% gray coverage: Opt for demi-permanent Color Touch or Color Touch Plus. These dreamy demis create a glossy color result in an array of blonde hues, and last for up to 24 washes.
For up to 100% gray coverage: Go for permanent formulas, like Illumina Color or Koleston Perfect, which provide complete coverage to the target area. If you’re using KP, make sure you mix in a Pure Naturals shade. Add ⅓ Pure Naturals on hair that’s 30-50% gray and ½ Pure Naturals for hair that's 50-100% gray.
For lift and color in one: For super-blonde color that lifts and tones, use Koleston Perfect Special Blondes; a range of high lift hues that should be mixed 1:2 with Welloxon Perfect. Use 9% developer for three levels of lift, and 12% for three to five levels of lift.
4. Start Where Gray is Most Prominent
When applying blonde color to regrowth, you should always start where the gray is most prominent. Targeting the dense patches first means stubborn silver strays are exposed to the color or lightener for longer.
5. Use Heat to Speed Up the Process
If you’re hoping to reduce development time by around 50%, use a Climazon. The blast of heat means grays will be gone after 15-25 minutes. Just make sure you double-check the results before you rinse the color out, using the tail end of a comb to peek at your client’s progress.